Six Ways With the August Tomato
When the tomatoes are good, you cook around the tomatoes. A short manifesto, with recipes.
The August tomato is a four-week occasion. We do not believe in wasting it on bread.
1. The right way to salt a slice
Thick slice, flaky salt fifteen minutes before serving, a good olive oil at the last second, black pepper. Nothing else. Do this before you do anything else on this list.
2. Panzanella, done properly
Yesterday's bread torn (not cubed), tossed in the tomato juice at the bottom of the bowl, cucumber, red onion sliced thin and rinsed, torn basil, sherry vinegar, oil. Sit for twenty minutes. Serve.
3. Slow-roasted with garlic
Halved, cut side up, on a sheet pan with olive oil, whole garlic cloves in their skin, thyme. 275°F for two and a half hours. Freeze what you don't eat.
4. Tomato water martini
Blend two pounds of overripe tomatoes with a pinch of salt. Strain through cheesecloth overnight in the fridge. The clear liquid, cold, replaces the vermouth in a very cold gin martini. Serve with a spear of cherry tomato.
5. On pasta, no cream
Cook the pasta a full minute short of al dente. Finish in a shallow pan with halved cherry tomatoes, olive oil, a smashed anchovy, and a splash of pasta water. Off the heat, torn basil and a great deal of pepper.
6. For the sandwich
Duke's mayonnaise, one slice of untoasted good white bread, salt, thick tomato slice, pepper, top slice. Stand over the sink.
